I have been a bit trouser obsessed of late. Trouser making obsessed. First I made my amazing stripey junipers. Which I love. I wear them a lot, but even if I could I wouldn’t want to wear them all the time as they’re very wide and stripey so I can’t cycle in them and I can’t wear half my t shirts with them (the horizontal striped top half with vertical striped bottom half look isn’t one I want to adopt).
So, high of my first success I wanted to dive into more trouser making. I gave myself an £80 budget guilt free (the cost of the cancelled trouser making course that was refunded).
I decided to start up with remaking the junipers as the first pair were successful. I used the adjusted pattern pieces from last time, with the redrawn crotch curve at the front and 4″ taken off the length (still leaving me 2″ to hem them). The width of this pattern gives them very definite style and I knew I wouldn’t want more than 2 pairs, so I wanted the second pair to be in a quite different fabric. As soon as I’d thought that some fabric I’d spied locally popped in my head, and suspected wool mix (labeless fabric) pale pink with subtle flecks of colour it was. Which is odd, as that’s not normally my thing. Hubby was surprised.
As I had bought two colours of bias binding to choose from for the baby kimono I decided to take inspiration from my fairy sewing godmother and use the unused green binding to finish the pocket bags. I was very impressed, it looked very neat. I used some left over blue to finish the fly off too. This, combined with my knowledge I could flat fell both inseam and outseam on the junipers due to their width (do the outseam first) should’ve left me with gorgeous interiors. Except I’d not taken into account the itchiness of the fabric and ended up bodging together a lining and badly hand stitching it in. So all my beautiful binding is now hidden. Oh well.
I managed to attach the pocket bags the right way round this time and they lined up perfectly. Hooray.
So I was surprised that I again had the problem with the pocket facing not lining up with the main front trouser piece – spot the triangular gaps where it should line up at the top and side? This happened last time and I assumed it was some mistake due to me fudging trying to match up the stripes. I have no idea why this happened as the notches where the pocket bag meets the facing lined up and the pocket bags lined up perfectly, so I can’t work out what I did wrong. The most likely explanation would seem to be an error on my part, but I also wonder if it is a drafting error. Both times I’ve made a size 18, the largest size. Any thoughts anyone?
There is a slight dip in the line of my waistband to make sure I caught all the fabric there.
Other than that they made up just fine. I swapped the zip opening around to the other side successfully, I prefer them opening on the right. I did the waistband properly this time, well, aside from not reading the instruction about shortening the facing on the opposite side to the main waistband (as they need to be mirror images of each other), so I had to patch a piece back on.
I’m not convinced by the overlap on the waistband. It seems overly long. Oh well. I guess it’s a style thing.
Anyway, one second pair of Junipers done. They’re not quite as nice as my first pair, but they are a bit smarter and the wool makes them semi waterproof and the lining means they’ll do in the winter nicely.
Now to get around to taking the machine basting out and to hem them properly by hand instead, they’ll look better for it.
Does anyone else wear things before they’ve actually finished them? (This pair had a safety pin for a few wears until I got around to sewing a popper (snap) on them).