Sometimes I get the How Much Fabric Have I Got? question right. Case in point, the leftover knit from a Hoodie for the Boy, enough to make a second pair of Cloth Nappy Trousers (now I know that the first pair fit) .
After it went in the post I realised that I didn’t take a full shot, so you’ll just have to make do with my “now it matches, now it doesn’t” shots of the front and back. This fabric is a nightmare for matching (those strong lines of pattern across the fabric, some of them wave up and down as they go) and I only just eeked these out, so I’m not too bothered. All together now “He won’t keep still long enough for anyone to notice”.
They have lined pockets, partly to neaten the edges, but also because this “woven sweater knit” frays and I didn’t want to risk just zig zagging the raw edges of the pockets straight onto the fronts as the pattern suggests.
For my newbie sewer friend who I recommended this pattern to, and anyone else who may be interested, here’s how I did it (follow the pictures from left to right).
- Retrace the pocket piece with an additional 1cm seam allowance along the three sides that get sewn down (extra seam allowance shown shaded).
- Use your new pattern piece to cut out 2 mirror image pockets, and 2 mirror image linings (only use jersey for the lining, two layers of sweatshirt fabric would be too thick). Also cut 2 pocket bindings using the standard pattern piece.
- Sew the pocket binding on as per usual but with a slightly smaller seam allowance.
- Pin the pocket linings to the pockets, right sides together, and sew along the three edges with the extra seam allowance, and also the bound edge, at the standard 1cm seam allowance for this pattern (so your initial stitching on that pocket binding will be inside the new stitching line and won’t show, yay)
- Trim your seam allowances.
- Turn the pockets right way out through one of the small unsewn edges and press.
- Sew on the pockets as usual. In theory you could just use a straight stitch, as now there are no raw edges, but as kids pockets take a pounding, I would suggest using a zig zag or your favourite flat lock style stitch anyway, for extra strength.
- Voila, you have lined pockets with no raw edges showing. Continue making up your Domi’s as normal.
In for a penny in for a pound, here’s how I did the waistband also for mainly for my same friend. There are several ways of sewing a waistband with elastic inside and many excellent tutorials out there. The main two ways are to either sew the waistband on first, leaving a gap, and then insert the elastic and finally sew up the hole or to sew the waistband on in one foul swoop with the elastic already inside it. Either way you need to anchor the elastic in some way inside your waistband to stop it getting twisted during wear. I’ve used the second method here.
- Make up your waistband piece and sew your elastic into a loop (the Domi pattern has a table of suggested lengths to cut your elastic if you don’t have your model handy to try it out on)
- Mark the quarter points on both (I’ve used pins here), I just fold them to do this.
- Open your waistband out. It’s hard to see in the photo but as I had pressed my waistband I could still see the fold line. I pinned the elastic to the waistband just below this fold line at the quarter points.
- Sew a vertical line at each of the quarter points through your elastic.
- Fold the waistband in half around the elastic. The wrong side is the one where you can see the lines of stitching holding the elastic in place.
- Pin the waistband to the main trousers, again matching quarter points, right sides together (so those stitching lines will be on the top side at the moment, sorry, this photo isn’t that clear).
- Sew the waistband on. I have put a pin to show you where the edge of my elastic is, so you can clearly see that I was only sewing through 2 layers of waistband and the trousers, not the elastic at this point.
- Press your seam, turn the waistband up, press again. You might then want to topstitch/flatlock in place. (I did if only to stop the main fabric fraying). And voila, you’re done.