Bad Aunty

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After a busy summer,the kids are now back at school and I’m finally catching up on organising overdue birthday presents for all my Niephlings north of the border.

Exibit A is a Maria Denmark Kirsten Kimono t-shirt in awesome print, with extra length for my superhero niece who is so tall that she doesn’t need to jump over buildings, she can just walk over them (well, almost).

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Cool Dude

When you see the fabric you bought full price on sale, it’s annoying. When you’ve had that fabric sat in your cupboard, for, your not even sure how long any more (over a year?), it’s probably a sign that it’s long overdue that you got cracking on the project you bought it for.

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A long sleeved tee shirt for The Boy. Still, at least things loitering in the stash far too long is a different problem to not having enough fabric.

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Unless you also don’t have enough fabric.

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Luckily I’m getting good at eeking and piecing, must be all the practice.

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This is a Semper, option A (without side panels and pockets), no hood, so slightly altered neckline (just cut a bit higher, make sure that you’re cut is at at right angles when you hit the fold in the fabric), neckband instead (quite wide to account for the fact that I decided at trying on stage I’d’ve preferred it cut higher still), no sleeve bands or bottom band, the pattern pieces were just extended instead, and the front and back were extended a bit extra too, as he’s a bean pole. (Are you still awake at the back there?).

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After fiddling around with alterations and pattern matching at the cutting stage (Good marks for centering the patterns, getting things straight, pattern matching at side seam and underarms, could do better on raglan sleeve), it was a quick make.

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And now I have a happy boy.  (Also modelling a circular scarf he just acquired).

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Why is it the gorgeous fabric I don’t buy straight away always seems to sell out, and the stuff I do get ends up on sale?  Is this just me?

A circus of Puffins

*Actually, the time before I made this t shirt was my first ever Full Bust Adjustment and I messed it up and fudged it. I wasn’t quite sure how to manage one on a kimono sleeve t shirt but according to a comment on Maria’s blog“you just cut off the sleeves, and then put them back on after the adjustment”. Righto. I think I did this right.

Next up, the back. I decided that as I’d gone to all that fuss with the front, maybe I should finally learn how to do a sway back adjustment on the front, using this tutorial from Kitschycoo, in for a penny, in for a pound, right?

 

So, more taping (does anyone actually tape the whole pdf together before starting to cut pattern pieces out?), chose where to do it (err, no lengthen/shorten line as per tutorial, so I chose a handily looking placed join in the taped together pieces), mark wedge to be taken out (in blue) scratch head, re-read tutorial, mark wedge the correct way around (in pink, I’m loosing 2cm height from the centre back here), trace top half of pattern (with seam allowance included trick), mark top part of wedge, rotate greaseproof tracing paper so that line is now at the bottom of wedge, trace bottom part of pattern. See, that wasn’t so bad was it?  And now there are two personalised pattern pieces and walking the side seams looks like the side seams are still about the same length. Brill.

A short panic about cutting into my precious fabric later (really I should use a fabric I don’t care about to test my fit, but all my jersey is precious), 4 seams (with clear elastic in the shoulder seams) later and I’m ready to try it on.

Not too shabby, the swayback has definitely helped reduce pooling in my lower back, it’s a little tight around my ever expanding waistline (no, no happy news here, just pies) and it’s far too long, as despite making this mistake last time, I cut the 4XL length with the L size.

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Just some finishing to do. Inspired by Dandelion Drift recent shoreline boatneck  post I use this variant of this technique to finish my sleeves and neckline in orange ribbing. Happy colours! (I cut the neckline ribbing at about 90% the length of my neckline).  This was a bit of a spur of the moment decision, I love the orange but had to trim my seam allowance to get the binding to work as instructed. The inside looks a bit messy but worst of all the sleeve hem is still flipping up in the pictures above. Arghh. Bane of my sewing with knits life.

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Then I hacked off some inches from the bottom and added a wider orange rib band (so the length ended up back to about where it was drafted, nice and long without being silly).

And the jobs a good un. And now I can wear puffins all day long! My daughter’s comment on it was “these two are talking to each other and this one is ignoring that one”…

Christmas is Icumen In

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Bam. Second Christmas present made. Still more than a week before Christmas. Not sure what’s come over me.

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Super quick raglan t shirt made with left over falling coins jersey fabric (from the Grimms brothers fairy tale Sterntaler) and some orange jersey from the stash for the arms and extra length for the body.  Think I might have gone a bit overboard on the extra length. Oh well.

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The ribbing is navy, but a darker blue than the main fabric. I didn’t hand stitch it down this time, but topstitched my raw cuff edges down with navy blue zig zag. I’m not entirely happy with how this has come out but when I use a twin needle I get stitches popping and I’d like not to buy a coverstitch machine.

Oh and confession time the print is upside down on the back. Whoops. Don’t think anyone will ever know though.

Are you making anything for Christmas?

Sometimes you just need a quick win

This week has been slow sewing wise. Actually, that’s not entirely true, the other day I had a mending blitz and replaced a broken strap clip on hubby’s favourite bag as well as replacing some stitching on a leather patch on the bag before it came off taking the other end of the strap with it. Then I fixed a coat the Boy has just grown out of so I can pass it on, fixed one of my dresses, one of the Boy’s pajama top and finally got around to adjusting the elastic in the Girl’s Christmas skirt. Phew.

But new things making wise, it has been slow.

Partly this has been due to non sewing things, but I realised yesterday it was also that I was also a little bit put off by my plan for this week. I have 2 pieces of material I’d like to try the Day To Night top again. But after last time, I need to try and fiddle with the pattern a bit (although I suspect my friend wouldn’t mind so much if I gave her another iteration or two of that top as she really likes it). And the thought of working out how to do a FBA on a drape top seemed hard. So I kept waiting for the right time to start. Which never seemed to come.

So, today I switched it up and did a project from further down my to do list. A remake of my favourite Birgitte T shirt, in some scrumptious new fabric I got when in a recent splurge on the Kitschy Koo website. There’s not that much to say about the make, I used the same full bust adjustment (FBA) on the front as last time (which adds 3cm to the pattern piece so 6cm to the fabric as it’s cut on the fold), but I used the unadjusted sleeve this time.

Wanna see?

the front ....

the front ….

Can you tell I’m pleased with it? Although those creases pointing at my armpit make me think there is a little room for improvement (maybe it needs even more adding in the bust?). Although I was wearing the 70’s Birgitte cut from the same pattern pieces yesterday and I’m pretty sure that one doesn’t have those creases.

... aand the back

… and the back

I think doing FBA’s makes my back’s fit a little better, as the t shirt back is only a large (it would need to be XL or 2XL if I wasn’t doing a FBA), but there’s still folds of fabric in the small of my back. I think the next step is to investigate what sway back adjustments entail, unless anyone has a better suggestion?

Image of Stripy Hearts Blue and Pink cotton jersey (by the half metre)

For some reason the fabric seems a little out of focus in all my photo’. It’s this print which I bought from Kitschy Coo (and the above photo is from there too). The fabric is lovely quality, all the fabric I’ve ever had from there is lovely quality and it wears well, so I don’t mind the price so much as the much cheaper t shirt fabric I got last year is pilling like crazy (unlike the heavily worn t shirts I made the kids from fabric from this source). And did I mention the service is great too? Amanda is even patient and understanding with daft customers who hassle them about missing orders which turn out to be due to the customer giving her the wrong address.

The other place where there is a small room for improvement is the neck band, which doesn’t quite lie flat. Probably due to a combination of it being quite wide and being in self fabric not rib. I didn’t have any appropriate rib and wanted it to have a whole depth of a heart on, which I managed and looks nice, so I can live with the slight wobble.

action shot

action shot

Overall I give this make 9/10, it was quick to make, nothing went wrong, the fabric is lovely and wearing it makes me smile. I’ve even made a start on adjusting the pattern pieces for the Day to Night top.

I did it

I did it, I cut into my precious holiday buy fabric and made a dress.

Peekaboo

Peekaboo

I was so happy wearing my turquoise dress (and so disappointed it had to go in the wash) that I decided it would be a “good enough” pattern for my nighttime city scape fabric. After all, if I waited for the perfect pattern I could have the fabric in a box forever and never wear it at all. So, I overcame my fears of messing it up and the fabric stretching out over time (as I had to cut it at right angles to the way I should) and went for it.

My 8 year old has upped his game

My 8 year old has upped his game

I dithered a little about pattern placement. The fabric has a symetric design, brown with thin rectangles in the middles, going through pink, yellow and orange to brown with the rectangle size increasing as it approaches the border, which had a horrid print I was determined not to use. I’m not sure I got it quite right, I thought the dark on my full bust would help reduce it’s size and the pink would be nicer near my face than the yellow, but now I have a yellow band round my widest part. Oh well, I don’t care.

back shot as directed

back shot as directed

I didn’t have enough fabric to get the sleeves to match up with the main dress, but I think they look fine. I made the cowl with orange nearer my face and a flash of yellow on the undercollar to lift it.

Other than that I made it exactly the same as before, but used a strip of interfacing (normal stuff, I can’t get jersey interfacing locally) to stabilise the shoulder seams.

look, a fushia, in flower in November

look, a fushia, in flower in November

The fit is a little tighter as the fabric has less drape, but I’m fine with that.

I LOVE THIS DRESS. I’m so proud of it. I’m in my second day of wearing it and wondering if I can squeeze day 3 out of it before washing it. I have told anyone who glanced at it that I made it, I’ve probably been unbearable.

he wanted to show you a close up the lovely fabric

he wanted to show you a close up the lovely fabric

And it sort of only cost me £8 (I say sort of, as I used the Birgitte pattern, but I’ve also used that for t shirts, so how to cost that, plus I made the Lola dress as I was experimenting with what to do with this fabric and that cost a bit in paying for the pattern and printing it). But it would cost me at least £30 to buy, and I couldn’t buy this dress and did I tell you I MADE IT!

I’m so proud.

reverting to type

reverting to type

The one I gave away

I gave away a top I made today. I took a quick photo before giving it away. Try and ignore the silly expression (I was in my friends house, with my husband taking a quick photo, being photobombed by three small twirly children whilst my friend and her sister looked on – not the ideal photo shoot). The thing is the fit.

Akward photo

Akward photo

The top is the day to night drape top by Maria Denmark (yes, I seem to have a bit of a thing about her patterns and tutorials at the mo). With Birgitte sleeves, as suggested by Maria, because I don’t wear sleeveless tops. I made it in some petrel couloured jersey from a local shop that I now realise is very similar colour to one of the photographed example top’s on her website – this was not intentional! I’m not sure of the fabric content, but it’s very slinky and drapey and feels cold to the touch. It is, as I thought, quite a good choice for a drape neck, but it’s also a little clingy on me.

But then that could be down to the size I cut. I steeled myself to do a full bust adjustment on a drape top. I was a little intimidated. But the pattern suggests using the same method I used before and I figured I just had to ignore the odd looking neckline and concentrate on the FBA. So, I measured my upper bust – 99cm, which corresponds to a large size (with bust measurement 102cm – the medium is 96cm), like I cut for my Birgitte’s. Then I measured my full bust – 103cm. Which is only 1cm above the large bust pattern size. Surely not. I measured again, and again, same answer each time. Surely a 1/2 cm FBA on my pattern piece is not worth it, especially when the pattern says a FBA is not needed for a C cup as there’s plenty of room in the bust.

There are so many things I don't like about this photo, except the two blondes

There are so many things I don’t like about this photo, except the two blondes

So I blended a large top half of the pattern out to a 2XL waist/hip (which I needed) and cut and sewed that. The result is too annoyingly too tight around my girth despite my novice attempt at blending pattern sizes. Also, I see drag lines going horizontally across my cleavage (this is practically all I can focus on when I put the top on). Surely that means I should have done a FBA? What was I thinking of? Why not add 3cm like I did on both the Birgitte’s and the Kimono t shirt – after all, they’re the same pattern designer.

So, I’ve given it away. Despite two friends telling me it looked nice. You know, I think I could live with it if I’d bought it, but it will just bug me no end every time I wore it if I kept it, knowing that I’d spent ages learning to fit t shirts for my bust and then not doing so on this one and then it not fitting properly. I’ve no idea what was going on when I measured myself. In the future, I will just do a 3cm FBA on all Maria Denmark t shirt patterns until my shape changes. End of.

Another awkward photo

Another awkward photo

Oh, and sewing the pattern. Well, that was quite straightforward. The pdf came together easily (not sure if that’s Maria’s skill, a fluke or the fact that the paper size didn’t have to be translated to A4 from letter). It’s just two pieces, but I used the Birgitte sleeve too. What I didn’t do was use fold over or invisible elastic as instructed. I didn’t have any, I wasn’t confident of getting some locally, I didn’t need it on the armholes as I was using sleeves, I couldn’t see what good it was doing inside the drape and I thought I could live without it on the back of the neck. Oh and just possibly I was feeling a little impatient to get it done and didn’t want to wait till the shops were open and possibly wait longer still as if I had to resort to ordering online.

That decision made starting difficult. I had though to make the top up and then decide if I could be bothered with finding elastic to finish it, but the instructions started with adding the elastic finish to the neck before doing anything else. A quick search later and I found this tutorial from Fehr Trade on cowl tops. Here the edges aren’t finished with elastic, horray, but the shoulder seam is stabilised with tape, which I don’t have. I used some hemming tape before on my Coco tops but I’m not sure it was quite the right product to use and I’ve since lost it.

So, in true prolificprojectstarter slapdash style I decided that my folded over seam allowance for the back neckline was my facing and I followed the Fehr Trade buritto method for the shoulder seams. It was a little confusing when pinning as they kept rearranging themselves so I wasn’t sure which was the right side, but it worked fine. Then I just folded over and sewed down my back neckline, after all that worked on my drape drape asymmetric top and no one has ever noticed. And inside the cowl? – I left a raw edge. So, sue me, it won’t show and I’m pretty sure it won’t fray either.

The sleeve attachment took a little jiggling. I cut the large Birgitte sleeves and they didn’t seem quite the right size for the armscye, but a little stretching (the joy of sewing with jersey) and it all worked out. It was also a bit wierd working out how to attatch around the cowl facing, maybe it would’ve worked better if I’d followed Maria’s instrustions, but I got round it. Then it was just hemming the bottom and sleeves, which I did with my double needle (still need to get some jersey interfacing to improve the look of that, ho hum, another thing I can’t get locally).

In conclusion, construction was fine and dandy (if a little quick and dirty) but the fit was off – due to anomolies of measuring and deciding I didn’t need a FBA and exacerbated by clingy fabric. Anyway, my friend is very pleased to have a new top, she hadn’t tried it on when I left it with her, but she has an old shop bought top of mine that I gave away as it was a little too tight in the bust and so kept riding up (some kind of princess seam going on there) and that fits her fine (she wear’s it often, which is good to see as it’s a nice top), so I think it will be fine. And as she’s slightly taller than me I know she will appreciate the long post baby tummy covering length of this top (one day shops will catch on and make them for people to buy!).

I have had enough of t shirts for a while (except possibly for a long sleeved one) and intend to focus on my new knit dress obsession (whilst still ignoring the pile of half finished stuff), but I will try this one again at some point, with a FBA, possibly emailing and asking for advice on sleeve sizing first, and quite probably not in blue (I never intended a new wardrobe full of blue t shirts, I like blue, and I was lacking blue t shirts, but I’m thinking I probably have enough now).